AC Not Cooling: Troubleshooting Steps Before Calling an Ontario HVAC Tech

Quick Checks Before Calling a Technician

Before spending $80-$150 on a diagnostic service call, run through these free checks that resolve approximately 30% of "AC not cooling" situations without professional help.

The 5-minute checklist

Start with the simplest possible causes. Is the thermostat set to COOL (not HEAT, AUTO, or OFF)? Is the temperature setpoint below the current room temperature? Is the fan set to AUTO (not ON, which blows air continuously even when the compressor is not cooling)? Check the air filter — if it is visibly dirty, replace it immediately. Walk through the house and verify all supply and return air registers are open and unobstructed by furniture, curtains, or rugs. Go outside and check the outdoor condenser unit — is the fan spinning? Is vegetation, debris, or a cover blocking airflow? Check the circuit breaker panel — the AC has its own breaker, separate from the furnace. If the breaker has tripped, reset it once. If it trips again immediately, leave it off and call a technician. Check the outdoor disconnect switch (a small box on the wall near the outdoor unit) — verify it is in the ON position.

What these checks tell you

If the thermostat was set wrong, the fix is free and immediate. If the filter was dirty and the system resumes cooling after replacement, the problem is solved for $5-$15. If the breaker tripped once and does not trip again after reset, it may have been a power surge — monitor over the next few hours. If the breaker trips repeatedly, you have an electrical problem that requires professional diagnosis. If the outdoor unit is not running at all, the problem is electrical (breaker, disconnect, contactor, or compressor). If the outdoor unit fan is running but the compressor is not (you cannot hear the lower-pitched humming vibration), the compressor has shut down on a safety control. If the outdoor unit is running and you hear the compressor, but the air from the registers is not cold, the problem is likely refrigerant, airflow, or ductwork related.

Thermostat Problems

The thermostat is the brain of your HVAC system, and incorrect settings or thermostat malfunctions cause a surprising number of cooling complaints.

Common thermostat mistakes

The fan switch set to ON instead of AUTO is the most common "AC not cooling" cause that is not actually an AC problem. With the fan on ON, the blower runs continuously — including during periods when the compressor is not active. The air coming from registers during fan-only operation is room temperature, not cold, creating the impression that the AC is running but not cooling. Switch the fan to AUTO so it only runs when the compressor is actively cooling. Another common issue: the temperature setpoint is set too close to the current room temperature. If the room is 25°C and the thermostat is set to 24°C, the AC may cycle on briefly and shut off without noticeably cooling the space. Set the temperature 3-5 degrees below the current room temperature and wait 15-30 minutes to see if the AC begins cooling effectively.

Thermostat malfunction signs

A malfunctioning thermostat can send incorrect signals to the AC system, causing erratic behaviour. Signs include: the displayed temperature does not match what a separate thermometer reads (more than 2-3 degree difference), the AC cycles on and off randomly without following the programmed schedule, the thermostat display is blank or flickering (low battery or power issue), or the thermostat is set to COOL but the system does not respond at all. If your thermostat uses batteries, replace them — a low battery can cause intermittent communication failures that prevent the AC from receiving cooling calls. For WiFi smart thermostats, verify the thermostat has not reverted to a factory schedule or lost its programming after a power outage or firmware update. Check the app for any system alerts or error messages that might indicate why the AC is not responding.

Thermostat location problems

A thermostat placed in a poor location can cause the AC to behave incorrectly even when the system itself is functioning perfectly. If the thermostat is mounted near a heat source (kitchen, sunny window, lamp, electronics), it reads a higher temperature than the rest of the house and calls for continuous cooling — while the rest of the home may already be adequately cool or even overcooled. If the thermostat is in a drafty hallway or near the front door, it may read lower than average and shut the AC off before living spaces are comfortable. If your thermostat location is problematic, adding a remote temperature sensor (available with Ecobee and other smart thermostats) or relocating the thermostat to a central living area can resolve chronic comfort issues without any work on the AC system itself.

Filter and Airflow Issues

Restricted airflow is the single most common cause of AC cooling problems and the most preventable. A dirty filter or blocked vents force the system to work harder while delivering less cooling.

How a dirty filter kills cooling

When the air filter clogs with dust, pet hair, and debris, it restricts the volume of air flowing across the evaporator coil. The coil is designed to absorb heat from a specific volume of air per minute. When airflow drops below the design level, the coil gets too cold — dropping below freezing temperature. Moisture from the air condenses and freezes on the coil surface, progressively blocking airflow further. Within hours, the coil can become a solid block of ice that allows no air through at all. The symptoms progress from "AC is cooling but not as well as usual" to "AC is blowing warm air" to "no air is coming from the registers at all." The fix is simple: replace the dirty filter, turn the AC off with the fan set to ON (to circulate warm air over the frozen coil), wait 2-4 hours for complete defrosting, then restart the AC with the clean filter installed.

Closed or blocked vents

Every closed supply register or blocked return air vent reduces system airflow and pushes the evaporator coil toward freezing. A common mistake is closing vents in unused rooms to "save energy" — this actually increases energy consumption by raising system static pressure, forcing the blower to work harder, and potentially freezing the coil. Keep all supply and return registers open and clear of furniture, curtains, and rugs. The return air register (typically a large grille in a hallway or stairway) is particularly important — if it is blocked by a piece of furniture pushed against it, the system is effectively suffocating. Ensure at least 6 inches of clear space around all return air registers.

Frozen evaporator coil recovery

If you find ice on the evaporator coil, refrigerant lines (the copper pipes connecting indoor and outdoor units), or the indoor unit housing, the coil has frozen and needs controlled defrosting. Turn the AC off immediately — continuing to run a frozen system can damage the compressor by sending liquid refrigerant back to it (liquid slugging). Set the thermostat fan to ON to blow warm room air across the frozen coil. Place towels around the base of the indoor unit to catch meltwater. Wait 2-4 hours until all ice has melted completely — partial defrosting is not sufficient, as remaining ice will cause re-freezing within minutes of restart. After complete defrost, verify the filter is clean and all vents are open, then restart the AC. If the coil freezes again within 24 hours despite a clean filter and open vents, the problem is low refrigerant (a leak) and requires professional service.

Outdoor Unit Problems

The outdoor condenser unit dissipates the heat removed from your home's air. If it cannot reject heat efficiently, the system's cooling capacity drops dramatically.

Dirty condenser coil

The outdoor condenser coil accumulates dust, pollen, grass clippings, cottonwood fluff, and debris over the cooling season. A thick layer of buildup acts as insulation, preventing the coil from releasing heat to the outdoor air. Efficiency drops 10-30% as the coil gets dirty, and in severe cases, the compressor overheats and shuts down on a safety control. You can perform basic condenser cleaning yourself: turn off the AC at the thermostat and the outdoor disconnect, remove large debris by hand, and gently rinse the coil fins with a garden hose from inside out (not a pressure washer, which bends the delicate fins). For heavy buildup, professional coil cleaning with specialized chemical cleaners costs $150-$300 and should be done annually as part of an AC maintenance visit.

Vegetation and airflow obstruction

The condenser requires at least 24 inches of clearance on all sides for adequate airflow. Plants, shrubs, fences, deck structures, and stored items that encroach on this clearance reduce airflow and force the system to work harder. Ontario's growing season can quickly overgrow landscaping around a condenser — a small bush planted 3 feet away in spring may be pressing against the unit by August. Trim vegetation regularly and avoid planting directly adjacent to the condenser. A privacy fence built too close to the condenser for aesthetic reasons can cost hundreds of dollars annually in increased electricity consumption and shorten compressor life by years.

Condenser fan and motor issues

The condenser fan pulls air through the coil fins to dissipate heat. If the fan motor fails, the condenser cannot reject heat and the compressor will overheat and shut down within minutes. Signs of fan motor problems include: the fan not spinning when the AC is running (the compressor may cycle on briefly then shut down on high-pressure safety), the fan spinning slowly or intermittently, grinding or squealing sounds from the outdoor unit, and the fan blade wobbling on a worn bearing. A failing fan motor should be replaced immediately ($200-$500 including labour) before it causes compressor damage ($1,500-$3,000 to replace). A faulty run capacitor ($150-$350 to replace) is another common cause of fan motor failure to start — the motor needs the capacitor to initiate rotation, and a weak capacitor causes slow starts, overheating, and eventual motor failure.

Refrigerant Issues

Refrigerant is the chemical that absorbs heat from indoor air and releases it outdoors. The system is sealed and should maintain its refrigerant charge indefinitely — if refrigerant is low, there is a leak.

Signs of low refrigerant

Ice formation on the evaporator coil or refrigerant lines (the copper pipes between indoor and outdoor units) is the most visible sign of low refrigerant. Other signs include: the AC running continuously without reaching the set temperature, warm air from supply registers despite hearing the compressor running outdoors, hissing or bubbling sounds near the indoor unit (indicating a refrigerant leak at a connection point), the outdoor unit's larger copper pipe (suction line) not cold or sweating as it normally would, and unusually high electricity bills from extended run times. Low refrigerant causes the evaporator coil temperature to drop below freezing (because less refrigerant absorbs less heat, making the coil too cold for the reduced amount passing through), which creates the ice formation that further reduces cooling capacity.

Refrigerant leak repair and recharge

Fixing a refrigerant leak involves two steps: finding and repairing the leak, then recharging the system with the correct amount of refrigerant. Leak detection costs $100-$300 depending on leak location and method used (electronic leak detector, UV dye, nitrogen pressure test). Common leak locations include brazed joints in the refrigerant line set, the evaporator coil (especially in systems over 10 years old), and the condenser coil (exposed to outdoor elements). Leak repair costs vary from $200-$600 for accessible joint repairs to $600-$1,500 for coil replacement. Refrigerant recharge costs $200-$600 for modern R-410A systems. Systems using the phased-out R-22 (Freon) face dramatically higher recharge costs of $600-$2,400 due to extremely limited supply — if your system uses R-22, replacement is almost always more economical than continued recharging.

Refrigerant and Ontario regulations

Refrigerant handling in Ontario requires TSSA certification — it is illegal for homeowners to purchase, handle, or charge refrigerant themselves. Venting refrigerant to the atmosphere is a federal offence under the Canadian Environmental Protection Act. When you need refrigerant service, ensure your contractor recovers, recycles, or properly disposes of any refrigerant removed from the system and provides documentation of the amount added during recharge. If a contractor suggests "topping off" refrigerant without investigating the leak source, find a different contractor — adding refrigerant to a leaking system is a temporary fix that wastes money and releases environmentally harmful chemicals.

R-22 systems: repair or replace?

If your AC system uses R-22 (Freon) refrigerant, which was phased out in Canada due to ozone depletion, every recharge becomes increasingly expensive as remaining supply diminishes. Current R-22 costs run $100-$250 per pound installed, compared to $40-$90 per pound for modern R-410A. A full system recharge requiring 6-12 pounds costs $600-$2,400 for R-22 versus $240-$1,080 for R-410A. Most R-22 systems are 15+ years old, placing them near end of life regardless of refrigerant costs. If your R-22 system needs a recharge, seriously consider full system replacement — the recharge cost often represents 20-40% of a new system's installed price, and the old system will likely need another recharge or major repair within 1-3 years. Modern replacement systems using R-410A or R-32 are 30-50% more efficient, qualify for Ontario rebates, and eliminate future refrigerant availability concerns.

Compressor and Electrical Problems

The compressor is the heart of the AC system — the most expensive component and the one whose failure most often triggers the repair-vs-replace decision.

Compressor failure signs

A failing compressor exhibits several warning signs before complete failure. The outdoor unit runs but produces a clicking, buzzing, or chattering sound instead of the normal smooth hum — this indicates the compressor is trying to start but cannot (often due to a failing start capacitor or internal mechanical damage). The compressor starts then shuts off within minutes (overheating from low refrigerant, high head pressure from a dirty condenser, or internal damage). The outdoor unit trips the circuit breaker when it tries to start (a hard short or ground fault in the compressor motor windings). A completely dead compressor produces no sound or vibration when the outdoor unit is called to operate. Compressor replacement costs $1,500-$3,000 including labour — for units over 10 years old, this expense often triggers replacement of the entire outdoor unit rather than investing in a major repair on aging equipment.

Electrical component failures

Several electrical components between the thermostat and the compressor can fail, preventing cooling while making it appear the system is broken when only a $50-$200 part needs replacement. The contactor is an electromagnetic switch that sends power to the compressor and condenser fan when the thermostat calls for cooling — a burnt or pitted contactor prevents the outdoor unit from receiving power ($150-$300 to replace). The run capacitor stores electrical energy and releases it to help the compressor and fan motors start and run efficiently — a failing capacitor causes hard starts, overheating, and eventual motor failure ($150-$350 to replace). The start capacitor provides the extra boost of power needed to get the compressor turning from a dead stop — a failed start capacitor prevents the compressor from starting entirely ($100-$250 to replace). The thermal overload is a safety switch that shuts down the compressor if it overheats — a faulty overload can shut down a perfectly functioning compressor unnecessarily ($100-$200 to replace).

Tripped breaker troubleshooting

If the AC breaker trips, it is telling you something — do not keep resetting it without investigation. A breaker that trips once may have experienced a momentary power surge (common during Ontario thunderstorms). Reset it once and monitor. If it trips again immediately upon the compressor trying to start, there is a serious electrical problem — a grounded compressor, shorted wiring, or failed capacitor. Do not continue resetting a repeatedly tripping breaker; this can cause electrical fires or damage the compressor further. Call a technician for diagnosis. If the breaker trips only after the system runs for 15-30 minutes, the compressor is likely overheating due to a dirty condenser, low refrigerant, or internal wear — check the condenser coil cleanliness and airflow clearance first, then call for service if the problem persists.

Ductwork and Distribution Issues

Even a perfectly functioning AC system cannot cool your home effectively if the ductwork leaks, is undersized, or poorly distributed.

Duct leaks: the hidden energy thief

Leaky ductwork can waste 20-30% of the cooled air before it reaches your living spaces. The air escapes through gaps at joints, disconnected sections, and deteriorated flex duct connections — typically into unconditioned spaces like the attic, crawlspace, or between walls. Signs of duct leaks include: rooms that never seem to cool despite the AC running, higher-than-expected electricity bills, dusty air from supply registers (unfiltered air being drawn in through leaks), and hissing or whistling sounds from ductwork. Professional duct sealing costs $500-$2,000 but can improve cooling delivery by 20-30%, effectively giving you 20-30% more cooling capacity from your existing equipment without replacing anything.

Uneven cooling between rooms

If some rooms cool effectively while others remain warm, the issue is usually ductwork distribution rather than the AC system itself. Common causes include: undersized ducts serving distant rooms (the longest duct runs receive the least airflow), disconnected or kinked flex duct in the attic, closed or partially closed dampers in the duct trunk (check for damper handles on exposed ductwork in the basement), supply registers too far from return air registers creating dead zones, and inadequate return air capacity (one common return vent trying to serve the entire upper floor). Solutions range from adjusting damper settings (free) to adding return air ducts ($500-$1,500) to rebalancing the entire duct system ($300-$800).

Two-storey home cooling challenges

Heat rises, making upper floors 2-4 degrees warmer than main floors in most two-storey Ontario homes. If your upper floor is consistently uncomfortable while the main floor is adequately cooled, the issue is physics — not necessarily a failing AC. Solutions include: keeping upper floor supply registers fully open and partially closing main floor registers (directing more conditioned air upstairs), using ceiling fans in upper floor rooms to improve air circulation, adding a second return air duct on the upper floor (many older homes have the only return on the main floor), installing a zoned duct system with motorized dampers that independently control airflow to each floor ($2,000-$5,000), or adding a separate ductless mini-split for the upper floor ($3,000-$5,000). For homes with persistent upper floor comfort issues, a dedicated upper floor cooling solution often provides better results than trying to force a single system to overcome the laws of thermodynamics.

Humidity Problems: Cool but Clammy

Ontario summers are humid, and an AC system that cools adequately but does not dehumidify effectively creates that uncomfortable "cool but clammy" sensation where 23 degrees with 70% humidity feels like 26 degrees.

Why AC systems struggle with humidity

Air conditioners dehumidify as a byproduct of cooling — moisture condenses on the cold evaporator coil as warm humid air passes over it. Effective dehumidification requires the coil to be cold enough (below the dew point) and the air to contact the coil long enough for moisture to condense. Short cycling (from an oversized AC) means the coil does not stay cold long enough to extract meaningful moisture before the system shuts off. Low fan speed settings help dehumidification (air moves slower across the coil, allowing more moisture extraction) but reduce total cooling capacity. Variable-speed AC systems handle humidity better than single-stage systems because they can run at lower speed for longer periods, maximizing dehumidification while maintaining adequate cooling.

Solutions for high indoor humidity

If your AC cools effectively but humidity remains above 55-60%, several solutions exist. Verify the fan is set to AUTO, not ON — continuous fan operation re-evaporates moisture from the coil back into the air between cooling cycles. Check the condensate drain — if it is clogged, moisture that should drain away stays in the system. For persistent humidity issues, a whole-home dehumidifier ($1,500-$3,000 installed) works alongside the AC to maintain 45-50% relative humidity regardless of outdoor conditions. Some smart thermostats offer humidity control modes that extend AC run cycles to remove more moisture, accepting slightly lower temperatures in exchange for better humidity control. For homes with chronically high humidity, addressing the moisture source (basement moisture intrusion, bathroom exhaust fan issues, dryer vent leaks) may be more effective than trying to remove moisture mechanically after it enters the home.

Ontario humidity and AC sizing

Ontario's summer humidity levels, particularly in Southern Ontario and the GTA, create unique challenges for air conditioning systems. High-humidity days where the humidex exceeds 40 put maximum demand on both cooling and dehumidification capacity. An oversized AC is the most common cause of humidity problems in Ontario homes — the system cools the air too quickly, satisfying the thermostat before running long enough to extract meaningful moisture. If your home was comfortable with a previous AC but uncomfortable after a replacement, the new unit may have been oversized during installation. Proper sizing through a load calculation following CSA F280 standards accounts for latent load (moisture removal) as well as sensible load (temperature reduction), ensuring the system runs long enough per cycle to manage both temperature and humidity effectively.

AC Repair Costs in Ontario

Understanding typical repair costs helps you evaluate whether a quote is reasonable and whether repair or replacement makes more financial sense for your situation.

Common repair pricing

Diagnostic service call (technician visits, inspects, and diagnoses the problem): $80-$150, often waived or credited toward repair if you proceed with the work. Air filter replacement: $15-$50 DIY, no service call needed. Capacitor replacement (run or start): $150-$350 including parts and labour. Contactor replacement: $150-$300. Refrigerant leak detection: $100-$300. Refrigerant recharge (R-410A): $200-$600 depending on amount needed. Refrigerant recharge (R-22/Freon): $600-$2,400 due to phased-out supply. Evaporator coil cleaning: $200-$400. Condenser coil cleaning: $150-$300. Blower motor replacement: $400-$900. Fan motor replacement (outdoor): $200-$500. Evaporator coil replacement: $600-$1,200. Compressor replacement: $1,500-$3,000. Control board replacement: $300-$800.

Emergency and after-hours premiums

Weeknight and weekend service calls add $100-$250 to any repair. After-hours labour rates run 1.5-2 times standard hourly rates. Holiday service (statutory holidays) commands the highest premiums. During heat waves, wait times for non-emergency service can extend to 3-5 days, with some contractors offering priority service for maintenance plan customers (bypassing the queue). If your AC fails during a heat wave and you do not have a maintenance plan, expect to pay peak pricing and potentially wait several days for service. Portable AC units ($300-$600 at hardware stores) provide emergency cooling for critical rooms while waiting for repair.

Getting fair pricing

For non-emergency repairs, get 2-3 quotes from licensed HVAC contractors. Some contractors charge a flat diagnostic fee plus parts and labour, while others quote an all-inclusive repair price. Compare apples to apples — an "$80 diagnostic" plus "$400 capacitor replacement" totals $480, which may be more or less than a competitor's "$380 all-inclusive capacitor replacement." Ask whether the diagnostic fee is waived if you proceed with the repair. Verify the contractor is TSSA-certified and carries insurance. Check Google and HomeStars reviews, paying attention to how the contractor handles complaints. For major repairs ($1,000+), always get a second opinion before proceeding — misdiagnosis is common and an unnecessary compressor replacement is a very expensive mistake.

When to Repair vs Replace Your Air Conditioner

The repair-vs-replace decision depends on the AC's age, repair cost, efficiency, and remaining useful life.

The repair rule of thumb

Multiply the unit's age (in years) by the repair cost. If the result exceeds $5,000, replacement typically makes more financial sense. Examples: a 10-year-old unit needing a $600 repair (10 x $600 = $6,000) leans toward replacement. A 5-year-old unit needing a $600 repair (5 x $600 = $3,000) favours repair. This rule accounts for the likelihood of additional failures as equipment ages — a 10-year-old unit that needs one major repair today is likely to need another within 2-3 years, while a 5-year-old unit with one failure has years of reliable service ahead.

Always replace if...

The AC uses R-22 refrigerant — recharging costs are extreme and the supply will eventually be unavailable entirely. The compressor has failed on a unit over 12 years old — a $2,500 compressor replacement on a unit with only 3-5 years of remaining life is poor investment when a complete new system costs $3,500-$7,000 and lasts 15-20 years. The unit has required three or more repairs in the past two years — cascading failures indicate end-of-life. Energy bills have increased 20%+ despite maintenance — the system's efficiency has degraded beyond what repair can restore. Consider upgrading to a heat pump instead of a replacement AC — a heat pump provides both cooling and heating, qualifies for Ontario rebates of $2,000-$7,500, and reduces heating costs by 50-70% compared to electric resistance or oil heating.

Always repair if...

The unit is under 8 years old with a minor part failure (capacitor, contactor, fan motor) — these are normal wear items, not signs of system failure. The repair cost is under $500 on a unit less than 10 years old. The unit is under manufacturer warranty — parts may be covered, reducing repair cost to labour only ($100-$300). You plan to sell the home within 1-2 years and a working AC is sufficient for sale purposes. Keep a repair log documenting every service call, parts replaced, and cost. This record makes the repair-vs-replace decision much easier when a future breakdown occurs — you can see at a glance how much total money you have invested in repairs and whether failures are accelerating. Ontario HVAC contractors can also reference this history when making recommendations, giving you better-informed advice than a technician seeing your system for the first time. Consult our AC installation cost guide when comparing replacement costs against repair spending.

Preventing Future AC Cooling Problems

Most AC cooling problems are preventable through regular maintenance and sensible operating practices.

Annual maintenance

Schedule professional AC maintenance every spring before cooling season begins. A professional tune-up includes condenser and evaporator coil cleaning, refrigerant level check, electrical component inspection, capacitor testing, blower motor inspection, condensate drain cleaning, and overall system performance evaluation. The $150-$300 annual maintenance cost prevents the $500-$3,000 repair bills that result from neglected systems and extends equipment lifespan by 5+ years. Spring maintenance also catches minor issues before they become summer failures during heat waves when repair wait times are longest and emergency premiums are highest.

Monthly homeowner tasks

During cooling season (May through September in most of Ontario), check and replace the air filter monthly. Keep the outdoor condenser clear of vegetation, debris, and stored items — maintain 24 inches of clearance on all sides. Listen for new or unusual sounds during operation. Monitor cooling performance — if the system takes noticeably longer to cool the house than it did last month, a problem is developing. Keep curtains and blinds closed on south and west-facing windows during afternoon hours to reduce solar heat gain and AC workload. Run bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans when generating moisture to reduce humidity load on the AC system.

Seasonal preparation

Before starting the AC for the first time each spring, install a fresh air filter, clear any debris that accumulated on the outdoor condenser over winter (leaves, twigs, mulch), verify the condensate drain is clear by pouring water into the drain pan, check that all supply and return registers are open and unobstructed, and set the thermostat to COOL and lower the setpoint a few degrees to verify the system engages. Let the system run for 30-60 minutes while walking through the house to verify air is flowing from all registers and the air feels progressively cooler. Catching a problem during a comfortable May evening is far better than discovering it during a 35-degree July heat wave.

Reducing AC workload

An overworked AC is more likely to develop cooling problems, so reducing the cooling load on your system prevents issues and extends equipment life. Close blinds and curtains on south and west-facing windows during afternoon hours to block solar heat gain — this alone can reduce cooling demand by 10-20%. Use bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans when generating heat and moisture (cooking, showering) to vent it outside rather than making the AC remove it. Run ceiling fans to create a wind-chill effect that makes rooms feel 3-4 degrees cooler without lowering the actual temperature, allowing you to raise the thermostat setpoint and reduce AC runtime. Avoid running heat-generating appliances (oven, dryer, dishwasher) during the hottest afternoon hours when the AC is already working hardest. Seal air leaks around windows, doors, and electrical outlets to prevent hot outdoor air from infiltrating the home. Each of these strategies reduces the number of hours your AC runs per day, directly reducing wear on the compressor, blower motor, and other components that wear out based on accumulated operating hours.

Frequently Asked Questions